Tiffany were the leading Art Nouveau jewelry makers of the time
Art Nouveau Period: 1890-1915- Frenchman Rene Jules Lalique and American Louis Comfort Tiffany were the leading Art Nouveau jewelry makers of the time. Art Nouveau was fantastical and stylized, using many flowing and feminine elements of vines, leaves, birds, scrolls, serpents, insects and flowers in its design. A transparent enamel, Plique-a-jour, was often employed without a metal backing for light dispersion. Scrolling gold work, pearls and cabochon gemstones were used in very elaborate and romantic period.
Edwardian Period: 1901-1910- Extremely feminine and lacy jewelry with motifs of ribbons, stars, crescents, bows and wreaths of petite flowers gave the Edwardian jewelry its delicate impression. Many pieces of jewelry of this period have an all-white look, due to inclusion of platinum gold, diamonds, pearls and moonstones. Large colored gemstones were also center pieces in jewelry design.
Art Deco Period: 1920-1935- 1925’s Cubism movement highly influenced this period of jewelry design with geometrical patterns and angular forms. Diamonds, platinum and gemstones cut into pentagons, trapezoids and triangles figured prominently. Cardinal gemstones (rubies, sapphires, emeralds) and onyx were set against diamonds for stark contrast. Far East jade and coral and Indian Cardinal stones influenced the design of earrings, bracelets and pendants. Leading designers were Cartier, Van Cleef and Arpels, Maubousiin, Bucheron, Tiffany & Co. and Harry Winston came to prominence.
Retro Period: 1935-1949- During this pre and post war period, much of the precious metals were melted down for war funds. White metals were surpassed by yellow, pink and green golds, often mixed together in jewelry pieces. A patriotic look was developed using rubies, sapphires and diamonds, sometimes synthesized and jewelry fell out of favor once the US entered the war in 1941. Three dimensional, sculptural ribbon, bows and folds of metal became popular.
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